Iguazu!

Vacations are wonderful, especially when they are semi-required for work. I had to renew my Argentinian visa and I wasn't looking forward to a trip into Buenos Aires for that purpose. Instead I suggested to hop across the border into Brazil and get a new visa for free (as opposed to charges in BsAs) upon my return. Besides the fact that I would be crossing the Chilean border on my way to Ushuaia and that I don't have a Brazilian visa ($150 USD) to get into that country, I figured I'd go for it. I've always wanted to see Iguazu Falls and I couldn't let the opportunity go by since I was so close. I kept the details to myself and got the go ahead for my trip. Yipee!

I arrived at the bus station about 30-45 minutes early. My designated departure time of 12:45am came and went with no bus. At 1:15 I asked the ticket vendor where the bus was. He replied that it was in Cordoba (about 5hrs from here). I asked when it was due to arrive. He said it wasn't. Ummm, much confusion in my head. Was I not understanding his Spanish? Did I miss something? I basically repeated my question about a million times while he repeadted his answer: there was no bus. I asked why I was sold a ticket with the time written on it if there was no bus coming, was there a change in schedule? What happened? Nope, just no bus. Argh. He finally issued me a new ticket, this one for 5:05pm which he assured me would be there. (The original ticket I bought was coche cama, kinda like business class. The new ticket was semi-cama, aka coach... without any sort of refund in price.)

I went back to the apartment, slept, and then departed again for the bus terminal later in the day. At about 5:10pm there was still no bus. I asked the ticket vendor again, to which she responded that the bus is actually due to arrive at 5:30pm and there is no bus that was supposed to come at 5:05pm. Thanks. But the bus finally did arrive at it's new time (for me). About 17 hours later, I arrived!

On my first day up there, I decided it was best to try to get to the Brazil side of the falls. This would take care of my visa issues if possible and only required half a day to explore anyhow. I hopped in the bus to take me across the border. We stopped at the Argentina side of customs where everyone had to get out. It went pretty quick as we just had our passports stamped. Yes, one step down. Then we headed over to the Brazil immigration. The bus driver stopped the bus and walked down the aisle eyeing all the passangers. Don't make eye contact, pretend nothing is arye. Yes! Only about one or two people got off and the bus started up again!

This side of the falls offered a great view and was definitely the best way to start the trip. There was one trail which ended at a viewing platform to take in the Devil's Throat, a huge cascade that could literally swallow anyone or anything whole.

On the bus back, the fare was $4 (pesos). I paid with a $10 and received $2 back in change. I then asked the bus driver what the fare was. (I took the same bus there, and already knew.) He was honest and I asked him why I only got $2 back. He asked how much I gave him and finally gave me back my rightful change. An Argentinian guy was watching this exchange and gave me congratulatory nod as I returned to my seat. When we got off the bus, I went to the zoo with him and then out to drinks, and have his email with an invitation to show me around BsAs when I get there in Feb. hehe


The following day I covered just about all of the Argentinian side of the falls. Filled with loads of trails overlooking a multitude of vistas of the falls and ambling into the forest for views of hidden falls, I kept busy. Pathways led down to the water's edge and back up above the falls. Staircases wound around a large island in the middle of the falls. I even headed under the falls in a boat getting soaked in the process. I have to admit, while ducking under one of the minor falls was satisfying, I was a little freaked out when the captain gunned the boat straight into the biggest cascade. We're going into that one too???

Think back on all of the waterfalls you have seen resorts or landscape architects try to recreate. I swear they are all doing their best to mimic the falls at Iguazu. It was so idealic. So amazing. So tropical. I loved it! The sound of falling water penetrated the entire park. Birds called out to eachother and swifts made their homes directly under the falls. On on trail closed to vehicles (aka hardly any tourists visit it), I caught sight of toucans sitting in the trees, capuchin monkeys playing on the vines, and a baby fer de lance sunning on a rock in the middle of the path. Pictures were hard to take with the need to keep my hands still to accomodate my 10x zoom and my muscles shaking from a combination of the heat and exhaustion after a long day. I was eventually forced to turn back by a park ranger due to the late hour. However I returned the next day to complete the hike and was greeted by even more birds in my early morning jaunt.


I explored the Guirani culture both on a tour (hokey) and independently (the real thing). I toured an animal rehab facility with many birds one could only hope of catching a glimpse of. I climbed up the face of a cliff, rode a zipline, rappeled down and enjoyed a swim and cruise with new friends from Ecuador. All the while, cogs were turning in my head over what I believe makes a great interpretation center, tour guide, trail, etc. Hopefully in time I'll be able to make something of my "research."

I met many travelers in Iguazu. Interestingly, most were women traveling by themselves. One was on a two week vacation from a job as a lawyer in NY. Another had been traveling since Memorial Day all over South America with no end in sight. A couple from Ireland were on an around the world jaunt for the next 6 months. While it is great to travel, how much better is it to get paid to do so??? hehe. While my job has it's ups and downs, weeks like this certainly make it worth it. With that, I've only got 8 days left until I head down to Ushuaia!!!!!!